Ladies Wool Coat Stitching in Delhi-NCR: Unlined and Double-Faced Wool Coats Made at Your Doorstep

Buttonholes with belts are usually tie belts and rarely need buttonholes. If you want to make bound buttonholes you will need to separate the layers of fabric for 1”/ 2.5 cm or so and finish the edges by hand so as to hide all raw edges. We strongly recommend that you try and make one on a fabric swatch first.

A good sharp pointy no.11 scalpel/craft knife comes in really handy for separating double faced fabrics. Karigars do it by hand because machines tend to tear the weave. You can also find a tool called a double cloth splitter. An embroidery snips is really helpful to snip any tie threads if there are any.

Use milliners needles size #9 or #10, with extra fine polyester thread or silk size 50. Silk thread we use at our workshop is waxed which helps them from tangling. You can wax polyester with bees wax.

You can use a very little at strategic places where the garment may benefit from the additional support. Cut out fusible interfacing in strips that are about 1/8”/ 3 mm smaller than the guideline/basting stitches. Interfacing would be required in areas such as shoulder, neckline, button stand and nowhere else. Never interface entire panels as it will change the fall of the fabric adversely. Always try interfacing on a small piece first before proceeding further.

This entirely depends on how the coat drapes. You may use invisible snaps for a clean look at the front or opt for some nice hefty horn buttons to bring the front down. Alternatively you can also use a zipper or heavy duty press snaps.

Adding twill stay-tape at shoulder and necklines is important to ensure that these do not stretch over time. If you want just a hint of structure at the sleeve head but don’t want a full on sleeve head you can add a thin woolen felt strip alongside the stay tape on the shoulder seam. Fold the strip into one-third and two-thirds sections with the middle third matching the shoulder seam and hand stitch on both sides to the facing.

Yes welt pockets, in seam or patch pockets can be added using acetate or silk for the pocket bags. It is better to chalk mark them out before cutting the fabrics.

There isn’t an easy way to do it but remember to reduce the seam allowance to 1/4”/ 5 mm throughout to compensate for the two thicknesses of fabrics. This is important for the seams to lie flat when turned to the wrong side. Once you reduce the seam allowances from the usual 5/8”/ 1.5 cm seam allowances remember to recheck the pattern pieces as it affects the fit.